Getting
it into the Ground - Week 3
1. ACQUIRING A SITE
2. SITE SELECTION
3. SITE DESIGN
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ACQUIRING A SITE
As a starting point, look for empty parcels of land within your
neighbourhood. If none exists, look for businesses with large
lots that are under utilized or a school, hospital, nursing home,
or senior’s residence that is interested in sharing the
garden, or for possible sites within a municipal park. If you
are in a rural area, perhaps there is a farm or market garden
nearby that would be willing to rent your group some land.
Once you have identified a potential site, you must now find
out who owns it and come to an agreement about the use of the
site. Ownership can be determined by checking records in your
municipality’s Land Registrar office, if it is privately
owned, or if it is public, by checking with the municipality’s
Buildings Department for the zoning and permitted usage. If there
are zoning problems, the next step is to contact the Planning
Department to see if a community garden can be accommodated or
if the zoning can be changed. Some municipalities are willing
to accommodate community gardens within their parks. It’s
also good idea to enlist the help of your local Councillor or
alderman and the residents’ association in the neighbourhood.
Something to remember whenever dealing with any office of your
local government: be persistent and be patient. It always takes
longer than you would think possible.
Once you know who owns the land, schedule a meeting with the
owner to discuss the use of the land as a community garden. If
possible, invite a prominent member of the community who is a
supporter of the project as well as someone with a legal or real
estate background.
It’s helpful to have ready a one page description of your
project to give to the land owner, neighbours, city officials
and potential fund-raisers. Keep it brief and include the following
information:
- Definition of community gardening, aims and purposes
- Your garden’s mission statement
- Names of garden members
- What will be grown
- Year round maintenance plan
- Background of the sponsoring agency or group
- Name, address and phone numbers for at least two contact people
- Attach letters of support
Talk with the neighbours of the site, especially those immediately
adjacent. Explain your intentions, invite them to participate
and assure them of your commitment to maintain the site. Ask
them to sign a letter of support for the project.
Once you have agreement in principle with the site’s owner,
you must now work out the terms of use and prepare a written
agreement that will form the basis the site lease. Points to
consider include:
- General purpose
- Property description and location
- Utilities (water, electricity, etc.)
- Inspection of site
- Length of lease
- Option to renew
- Lease termination
- Lease modification
- Fees
- Maintenance
- Insurance
- Hold harmless clause
- Nondiscrimination clause
Many private owners require that you carry your own liability
insurance, while municipalities can often include your group
in their insurance. There is no one policy that covers community
gardens. The best advice is to work it out with a sympathetic
insurance broker. Some owners may be willing to have all participants
just sign a “Hold Harmless” clause. This sets out
in writing that you will absolve the owner of any liability but
it will not provide any sort of coverage for the injured.
A presentation to the City Council or a Residents Association
may be required. Be well organized, clear and have examples and
pictures of other successful community gardens. Bring as many
supporters as possible to these types of meetings.
Landowners need to feel confident in your group’s ability
to carry out the project. Keep them well informed, in writing,
of your plans, past experience in community-based projects, and
of your progress. Make sure to send them the monthly newsletter
and, most of all, invite them to become a member of the garden.
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SITE SELECTION
What makes a good site for a community garden? Location, location,
location……and plenty of sun! Community gardens should
be just that––a garden within the community. Ideally
they are located within easy walking distance of all participants
or are accessible by public transport. If you have to drive or
travel more than a very short distance by bus or subway, chances
are that you won’t garden as often as you would if the
garden is located just down the street from your home. In order
for it to truly be a community garden it must be an integral
part of everyday life in the neighbourhood.
Of course there are several important factors in choosing a garden
site. These are:
SUNLIGHT:
A vegetable garden should receive at least six hours a day of
sunlight. A bit of dappled shade in part of the garden is desirable
for a sitting area, but the growing areas must receive full sun
for as long as possible. If you don’t have this kind of
sun, and there is no other available site, look into growing
those plants that can tolerate more shade than most (see Appendix
A ). There isn’t a wide range of typical garden vegetables
that do well in the shade, but don’t despair––think
creatively.
SOIL QUALITY:
The most important factor for success of any garden, whether
it is a community vegetable garden or a meadow regeneration
project, is the soil. Without a living, healthy soil every
ounce of energy and every penny that you put into your garden
will be wasted. It makes much better sense to concentrate the
garden group’s energy, especially in the first year,
into adding organic matter (compost, manure, mulch) than in
buying expensive, synthetic fertilizers that promise astonishing
yields and giant vegetables. These chemical fertilizers need
to be applied every year and, in the bargain, kill off the
natural, beneficial soil organisms that do the work for free.
Chemical fertilizers are to plants what steroids are to bodybuilders.
Every site should have a soil test, not only for nutrient content
but also for contaminants. But first, investigate the past usage
of the site––was it used for housing, commercial
or heavy industrial use? If so, there is a good chance that the
soil contains toxic contaminants and may make the site unsuitable
for gardening without first replacing or otherwise remediating
the soil. Contaminant tests can be quite expensive, so if you
can narrow the scope of the tests by providing information which
will tell the labs what to suspect, you can save some money.
Nutrient tests will tell you the ratio of nitrogen to phosphorous
to potassium, or NPK––the 3 numbers on fertilizer
labels––as well as the soil’s pH. Some testing
services will also report organic matter content, calcium, magnesium,
sodium, sulfur and trace minerals. OMAFRA (Ontario only) supplies
a list of these accredited labs to gardeners, as do many other
provincial and state agricultural extension offices. The cost
for nutrient testing is usually under $20.00 (contaminant testing
is considerably higher), and depending upon the time of year,
it may take a month or more to get the results. If time is of
the essence, many nurseries and garden centres sell kits for
testing pH and NPK at a comparable or slightly higher price.
In addition to nutrient content, soil texture is another important
selection criteria. Soil is made up of organic components (humus)
and inorganic components (sand, clay and silt). The ideal soil
has lots of organic matter and a combination of the tiny rock
fragments of sand, silt and clay. The relative proportion of
these factors influences the soil’s water retention capabilities,
drainage, oxygen content, and fertility. Sandy soil drains too
quickly to hold water for long and so adversely affects the soil’s
fertility. Clay soil sticks together, forming hard, dense crusts
that roots and water have trouble penetrating. The addition of
organic matter, especially in the form of compost, can improve
any type of soil.
DRAINAGE:
In addition to the soil’s characteristics, the drainage
of the site as a whole is very important. Improving the soil
texture will help the general drainage, but if the site is unevenly
graded, the low areas will hold water regardless of the texture.
If your site has problem areas, regrade it to redirect the water
elsewhere, but also examine the texture. If the problem doesn’t
resolve by regrading and adding organic matter, the cause may
be underground. Often subterranean springs, leaking water pipes,
buried paving and other unknowable factors are the cause of wet
areas that just won’t go away. In cases such as these,
don’t fight it. Plant a miniature wetland or use plants
that love to have their feet wet at all times.
Water:
Easy access to water is vital to garden success. If there isn’t
any running water on the site, investigate the cost of providing
it. If that is too prohibitive or is not possible due to zoning
or lease conditions, perhaps an adjacent neighbour will allow
the (newly formed) Water Committee to run a hose or fill holding
barrels once a week, either for contributions to the water bill
or for a share of the harvest. And if that isn’t possible,
the committee should purchase some rain barrels (there are several
good ones on the market these days) and the gardeners encouraged
to practice water conservation techniques, such as mulching and
bottle drip irrigation.
PROXIMITY TO POLLUTION SOURCES:
Air born pollution is an ongoing vexation for any gardener who
wants to use organic gardening techniques, whether in the city
or in more rural areas. The wind knows no boundaries and pollution
that originates in one part of the country is quite capable
of affecting a garden hundreds or even thousands of kilometers
away. Combating long range pollution requires a political approach.
Combating more immediate pollution sources can take a more
horticultural approach.
The most common source of air born pollution that you can do
something about comes from car exhausts. Common sense tells us
to keep the garden, especially the food plants, as far away as
possible from busy roads, parking lots, situations where cars
sit idling their engines (traffic lights, stop signs, drop off
and pick up areas). If that just isn’t possible, plant
an ornamental (non-edible) strip, such as a hedge or a vine on
a fence, to act as a filter. Remember, the farther away from
the pollution source, the better.
Lead paint is another problem pollution source. The soil of many
older building sites are contaminated with minuscule flakes of
lead-based paint. This is especially hazardous to children, who
have a much lower tolerance of lead than do adults, because of
their smaller body size. The only way to determine if lead is
a problem at your site is to have the soil tested for contaminants.
Be sure to alert the soil lab to the possibility of lead when
you send in your sample. If you get a positive test result, the
only way to use the site safely would be to remove the contaminated
soil and replace it with healthy soil. Depending on the size
of the garden, this could be prohibitively expensive. Look for
another site or build planters that will allow you to grow food
crops in the good soil and keep the other soil for ornamentals
only. If you use this approach, make sure that all of the gardeners
are aware of the health hazard and that children are not allowed
to play in the contaminated soil. Even the small amount of lead
absorbed by just getting your hands dirty is too much for a child.
Another type of pollution that occurs more often in urban areas
than in rural ones is from road salt. Again, locate the growing
areas as far away from the pollution source as you can, and encourage
garden neighbours as well as your municipality to use sand rather
than salt on their sidewalks and roads. Small areas of salt contamination
can be improved by removing the top 5––20 cm. (2"––8")
of soil, watering the excavated area heavily in order to dilute
the salt as much as possible, and then replacing it with healthy
soil with a high organic matter content. Plants used in this
remediated area should have shallow root systems that will remain
within the new soil zone.
SAFETY:
A good location for a community garden is in a highly visible,
well traveled area. Out of the way locations are potentially
unsafe and open to vandalism. A garden that is visible is much
safer and is more likely to become a source of community pride
if it is in view at all times.
Some type of lighting is also advisable, especially if members
like to visit the garden at night. Take care to adjust the lights
so that they illuminate the garden and do not annoy the neighbours.
And finally, make it possible for the gardeners to identify each
other and to distinguish between friend and foe.
ACCESS AND SERVICES:
Look for a site that allows easy access by the gardeners, their
bicycles and, occasionally, their cars and by delivery trucks.
Nearby public transportation and adequate parking is important
if the gardeners are coming from outside the neighbourhood,
but make sure that they don’t take the locals residents’ spaces.
Another vital site criteria is the proximity of public washrooms
and telephones. If there are no public facilities, consider
renting a portable toilet, but get the approval of the neighbours
first. Locate it in such a way that it will be as unobtrusive
as possible and plant some tall flowers around it as an added
precaution.
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SITE DESIGN
BASE PLAN
The first step in designing the garden is to prepare a drawing
done to scale, called a base plan, showing the exact dimensions
of the entire site. Depending on the size of the site and the
size of your paper, a scale of 1/4"=1'-0" (or 1:50
metric) is a comfortable scale to work with. You may be able
to obtain a survey of the site from the owner which you can enlarge.
If not, get a long tape measure (50 ft. or more) and measure
it yourself. Base your measurements from a fixed point, such
as a sidewalk, building, or light pole.
SITE INVENTORY
After you have drawn the basic site outline, plot all of the
existing features of the site on one or more tracing paper overlays
(tracing paper is available in rolls at art and craft supply
stores).
Include such features as: - sun and shade patterns throughout
the day
- drainage patterns
- objectionable views, noises, smells, etc. that need screening,
or conversely,
- desirable views that you do not want to block
- wind patterns and direction
- changes in elevation (slope)
- existing trees, shrubs and other plant material: type, exact
location, trunk diameter, canopy spread, height, planting bed
shape and dimensions, condition and quality
- existing buildings that border the site
- existing structures within the site (fire hydrants, steps,
signs, light poles, sidewalks, etc.)
- circulation patterns: pedestrian and vehicular inside and outside
the site (i.e. is there a traffic light or parking lot adjacent
to the site that will result in pollution from car exhausts or
has the site been used for a long time as a pedestrian short
cut?).
- soil quality: texture, contaminants, pH, organic matter, areas
of compaction, etc.
- and any other things that you can think of, the more the better
DESIGN
Landscape design, whether for a small community garden or for
a large park, is a process of taking stock of what you already
have (the site inventory), brainstorming what you would like
to have, and combining the two to see what it is possible to
create.
Ideally, the entire group should participate in the brainstorming
exercise. Put several large sheets of paper (flip charts are
handy) on the wall and write down every idea, no matter how impossible
it may sound at the time. List them all without prioritizing
them at this point in time.
Some of the types of features you may want to include are:
- individual plots
- communal plots (for fruit, flowers, tall or space-greedy crops
such as corn and squash)
- raised accessible beds
- children’s plots
- shady sitting area
- sunny sitting area
- picnic / barbecue area
- compost bins
- garbage containers
- signage
- storage shed
- notice board
- children’s play space
- pathways: paved and unpaved
- water
- naturalized area (i.e. butterfly garden, bird habitat)
- fencing
- lighting
- screening of objectionable views - border planting for pollution
filtering
After you’ve listed everything, put more tracing paper
over top of the base plan and the inventory drawings and explore
different layouts of the various features you have in your list.
At this stage just use a bubble diagram style of drawing––show
the approximate size and shape of the feature, not the details.
You can do a more specific drawing after you’ve settled
on the basic layout. The important thing to remember is to explore
every idea and possibility. And don’t be stingy with the
tracing paper.
PLOT LAYOUT
The most important feature of any community garden is the garden
plots themselves. It is a rare site in which every plot is
blessed with perfect sun, gentle breezes and easy access to
water and the compost pile. Since some areas of the site will
be more desirable as garden plots than others, make sure to
use the best areas for plots and the secondary areas for non-growing
functions, such as sitting and children’s play areas.
There is no one perfect size for a plot. It will depend upon
the size and shape of the overall site, upon the interest and
abilities of the individual gardeners and upon the number of
people eating from that plot. Devise two (or more) standard size
plots for your site. Make one half the size of the other, to
give gardeners a choice. Not everyone wants, or is capable of
dealing with, a large plot and the work it demands to keep it
in good shape. And there isn’t any law saying that plots
have to be square or rectangular. Circular or curved plots can
be an efficient use of space in an oddly shaped site, as well
as providing visual interest.
A good size for a basic plot where space is not an issue is 3M
x 6M (approximately 10' x 20'). This size will enable a family
to grow a good supply of vegetables for the summer, and with
planning, have enough to put up for the winter. Within these
dimensions, gardeners can layout their crops in rows or in the
more space-efficient intensive beds, whichever appeals to them.
Rows allow for better air circulation and are easier to cultivate,
weed and harvest if there are a lot of plants involved.
Where space is an issue, a plot can be as small as 1.2M x 2.4
M (4' x 8'). In this situation, intensive planting techniques
are key. Intensive beds are designed to accommodate more plants
in a smaller area than row layout can, so for a small urban site
they will enable gardeners to harvest much more per plot. Another
advantage of this type of layout is that, because of close spacing,
the vegetable plants themselves shade out weed seedlings in much
the same way that plants in a natural ecosystem do. If you use
a bed layout system, beds with a path on both sides should be
no wider than 1.2 meters (4 feet). This allows the gardener to
reach halfway across the bed comfortably from either side. Any
wider and the bed should have an internal path.
PATHS
A well defined path system is essential, not only to make it
easy to get gardeners and materials to and from their individual
plots, but also to keep the plots well defined and to keep the
peace among gardeners. Cover the paths in some well-draining
material that is different from the mulch used in the plots,
such as shredded bark, pea gravel, sod, etc., and, if the budget
permits, edge the paths with wood, plastic edging, bricks or
stones. Garden plots have a way of slowly gobbling up any unclaimed
space, and fights between gardeners can break out if any one’s
plot gets noticeably bigger while the paths become increasingly
narrower.
For paths between plots, plan on a minimum width of 75 cm. (30
inches.) to allow a wheelbarrow to be pushed up to a garden plot
with relative ease. For main paths (between sections of plots),
1.2 meters (4 feet) is desirable. When you first layout the site,
these will seem too wide, but don’t be tempted to narrow
these minimum widths. Any smaller than that and you’ll
have a difficult time of it, especially by mid-summer when the
growing plants will be overhanging the paths.
SHARING THE SUN AND THE SPACE
If possible, orient the plots along a north-south axis, that
is, with the longest sides running from north to south. This
will give the plants maximum exposure to the sun and minimize
shading problems. Encourage gardeners to plant with regard to
their neighbours. That means not planting tall crops, such as
corn or sunflowers, in such a way that they’ll shade out
another gardener’s smaller plants. If this is likely to
be a problem for several, consider preparing a communal corn
plot at the back (north end) of the site, so that everyone can
have fresh corn without contention. Several community gardens
ban corn, potatoes and squash from all plots because of the problems
they cause, but this seems like overkill. Having just-picked
corn is one of the reasons many people garden in the first place.
As for the space-hungry squash family, they’re also ideal
candidates for the communal plot. They can be grown along the
fence, if you have one, or on some other vertical means of support,
if you don’t have a fence. Just remember to locate the
trellis where it won’t eventually shade out other plants.
GETTING TO KNOW YOU
A community garden can provide a opportunity for people to be
creative in ways that they haven’t explored since childhood.
Some of the most successful community gardens offer many ways
in which to grow. Not everyone involved in the garden has to
be a gardener. Some can rediscover art, carpentry, or learn about
composting. A skills and interests inventory of the garden members
can yield interesting results.
Many gardeners will want to identify their plot with a sign or
other marker. The group may want to take the opportunity to design
similar plot signs for everyone or may want to start a friendly
competition to design the most individual marker. Remember to
make any competition fun and an occasion for everyone to get
to know each other better.
It’s virtually impossible for all gardeners to be in the
garden at the same time. Someone with carpentry skills could
build a rainproof bulletin board for announcing garden events
and for passing along information to the gardeners.
People can do many amazing things--if you ask them.
TO FENCE OR NOT TO FENCE?
Will you put in a fence? In areas with a lot of vandalism fences
can help to cut down on pilfering but only an 8 ft high razor
wire will give guarantee and who wants to garden behind that?
They do prevent dogs, balls and the casual vandal from entering.
If you decide that a fence is needed, consider something other
than a chain link fence, if the budget will permit. If not, then
hide the fence by using it to grow vines.
THE WORK PLAN:
Well, you have the land, your group has come up with a design
that everyone is happy with, it's springtime and you're more
than ready to get going. After much discussion, the Site Construction
committee decides that the work can be done in 2 stages: the
first Saturday will be clearing and preparing the land and
the second one will be laying out the plots and paths. The
dates are set (as well as rain dates) and here's what you have
to do (not just you--remember it's a group effort):
- Organize work crews (the more the better) well in advance of
your work day. Know who is going to show up and what their skills
are. Call them the day before to confirm that they will be there
and to remind them to wear the proper clothing (boots, gloves,
etc.).
- Have several copies of the design and layout plan on site.
They always seem to get lost, wet or muddy so keeping one in
reserve is a good idea. Your layout plan should have measurements
of all of the important design features easily readable. (plot
and path dimensions, distance from fence, etc.)
- Figure out in advance what soil amendments you will need (based
upon your soil test). If you are planning to add compost or topsoil,
make sure it is at the site the day before your work bee. (see
note below to figure out how much to order)
- Call before you dig--the catch phrase that reminds us to find
out from the local utility companies what services they have
underground at our site and which ones we'll be in danger of
hitting if we don't get a stakeout. This service is usually free
but can take a week or more to schedule. Call them well in advance.
- Have all the tools you will need ready and waiting. Don’t
leave it up to the workers to bring whatever they may have at
home. Make a list ahead of time and tell people what they need
to bring. If tools need to be rented, arrange for someone to
do that. Have work gloves and other necessary safety protection
available.
- Have plenty of refreshments available, especially water. Encourage
people to wear hats and have sunscreen on hand if the weather
demands it. This is a task for the Social Activities Committee!
- Depending upon the work to be completed and the number of volunteers,
you may want to organize into work crews with specific tasks.
Perhaps someone in your group has experience in landscaping or
in managing construction crews. If so, delegate!
- First up is cleaning and preparing the site. That means removing
the sod, tilling the soil and adding compost and manure. Taking
up sod by hand is not easy but can be made less difficult by
using sharp straight-edged spades and lots of volunteers. Sharpen
the spades with a file and keep the file handy for re-sharpening.
Mechanical sod lifters can be rented but do not use a rototiller
for sod removal. They are meant to till soil, not chop up grass.
Start by perforating a length of the grass with the sharp edge
of the spade. Then do the same to a length parallel to the first
line but spade’s width away. Then slip the flat end of
the spade under an end of the grass and skim it just below the
grass roots, getting as little soil as you can. With some practice
and if your spade is sharp you should be able to roll up the
sod into nice neat rolls. (This takes practice :-)
- Don’t forget you’ll need to get rid of the sod
once it is lifted. Shake off as much soil as you can to reduce
the weight. If there is a bare spot somewhere else on the property,
and if you have removed the sod neatly, you can place it there.
If not, then stack them off to the side for later use.
- Depending upon the design of the site you may want to add the
soil amendments to the whole site or just to the individual plots.
If to the plots only, then layout the plots first and till in
the amendments after. The following is when you are adding to
the entire area:
- Use a tiller or dig in by hand to mix in the soil amendments.
- Rake the soil as level as possible, but allow for a slight
slope for drainage.
- Lay out the plots with string and stakes. You have already
figured this out on paper ahead of time so it should be relatively
easy.
- If possible, plan to have some kind of paving material for
the paths. Seniors and disabled people will appreciate a firm
surface to walk on. This doesn’t need to be hard paving--it
can be shredded bark, straw, pebbles, patio slabs, or even grass
(if you want to mow it).
- Celebrate your achievements! The first step towards a summer
of gardening has been taken.
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RESOURCES
TEN TOOLS EVERY COMMUNITY GARDEN NEEDS
Gardeners may not agree on the best mulch or the perfect fertilizer,
but there's one thing that every gardener agrees on: when it
comes time to purchase tools, buy the best. Quality garden tools
are an investment that yield dividends over time. Here are the
top 10 gardening tools every community garden should own.
1. Trowel A well-made trowel is your most important tool. From
container gardening to large beds, a trowel will help you get
your plants into the soil. Every gardener should have one.
2. Hand Fork A hand fork helps cultivate soil, chop up clumps,
and work amendments
into the soil. A hand fork is necessary for cultivating in closely
planted beds.
3. Hoe A long-handled hoe is a gardener's best friend. Keeping
weeds at bay is the purpose of this useful tool.
4. Secateurs (Hand pruners) Invest in a pair of quality pruners,
such as Felco, which is clearly a cut above. This sturdy pruner
is used for clipping rose canes, cutting back perennials, and
any other trimming jobs that need to be done.
5. Watering can Haws are the best in the business. This English
watering can creates a fine even stream of water that delivers
with a gentleness that won't wash seedlings or sprouting seeds
out of their soil.
6. Fork You can't dig and divide perennials without a heavy-duty
fork (and some dividing methods even suggest you own two!).
7. Shovel The sharper the better, a shovel is a requisite tool
for planting large perennials, shrubs, and trees. The most basic
act in the garden is breaking ground, so it stands to reason
that a sharp shovel will be a key player
8. Wheelbarrow Wheelbarrows come in all different sizes (and
prices). They are indispensable for hauling soil, compost, plants,
mulch, hoses, tools...everything you’ll need to garden.
9. Gloves Unless you want to wear your favorite hobby under
your nails, use gloves. Leather gloves hold up best. If you have
roses, get a pair that resist thorn pricks.
10. Hose. This is the fastest way to transport lots of water
from your water source to your garden.
TOOL CARE TIPS: You didn’t spend all that money / effort
to get your tools, only to have them rust away. A true gardener
values her/his tools.
- Clean up. Clean all soil from digging tools after each use.
If soil has dried, use a wire brush or even a knife.
- How to handle handles. If wooden tool handles are damp, set
the tools in the sun to dry before storing. At the end of each
gardening season, rub linseed oil or tung oil into handles.
- Stay on the cutting edge. Don't forget to sharpen cutting tools
and blades of shovels and spades during the gardening season.
Frequently used tools dull quickly, so keep a whetstone or a
sharpener in your tool arsenal.
- Chase rust away. Damp tools welcome rust. After each use, wipe
down metal parts of pruners, shears, and loppers with an oily
rag. This will help keep rust at bay.
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HOW TO FIND WHAT YOU NEED
Most gardeners are born scroungers or eventually learn to become
one. There’s a lot of free or nearly free material out
there that, with a little effort, can be turned into something
of use for the garden. Keep your eyes and mind open!
RESOURCES
- Manure: It doesn’t have to be bought in bags. Check local
stables, including the police, if you are in an urban area.
- Leaves for mulch and compost: Most municipalities now collect
leaves for their own composting programs. Either beat them to
it on collection days or order their finished product.
- Grass clippings for mulch and compost: Rake it up yourself,
raid neighbour’s curbside collection bags, but beware of
herbicide-treated lawns. - Wood chips for mulch and pathways:
Power companies, tree service companies and municipalities chip
their trimmings, usually right on site.
- Miscellaneous mulch and soil amendments: Food processors, coffee
grounds, rice, peanut and buckwheat hulls, apple and grape pomace;
monument companies for granite dust (a potassium source); feed
mills for corncobs, farmer’s spoiled hay and straw, construction
companies for straw and topsoil.
- Scrap wood: Old pallets (great for making compost bins), dumpsters
at lumber yards and construction sites, wooden packing crates
(often perfect as planters, just as they are). Just make sure
that it isn’t pressure treated wood (the stuff with a green
color).
- Scrap metal: Pipes for posts, trellises can often be found
in dumpsters at construction sites.
- Fencing: Scrap wood from various sources (see above), used
snow fence (sometimes free from fence companies who rent it to
construction companies).
- Gallon plastic buckets: These come in handy for watering, container
gardening, hauling anything and everything, protecting newly
transplanted seedlings, mixing ingredients. Can be found at restaurants,
construction sites, dumpsters.
- Trellis materials: Plumbing companies will often throw out
damaged or small pieces of PVC (plastic) pipe. Also, old snow
fence makes good plant supports.
Free or inexpensive seeds and plants: Many nurseries, garden
centres, seed companies, and Parks Departments will give away
seeds and annual plants at the end of the planting season (usually
around mid- June).
- Tools: Garage sales, auctions, second hand stores, tool lending
libraries.
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COMMUNITY GARDEN WISH LIST
If your group is just starting up and needs everything, or if
you’re looking for something specific, consider publishing
a “wish list” in your garden newsletter, local newspaper,
or tell your local garden or service club.
Horticultural Items:
- topsoil, compost, potting soil
- seeds, bulbs, bedding plants, cover crop seeds
- perennials, shrubs, fruit bushes and trees shade trees
- manure, bone meal, blood meal, other natural fertilizers
- soil testing kit
- mulching materials such as shredded leaves, cocoa bean hulls,
coconut straw, hay, - shredded bark, wood chips, black plastic,
corrugated cardboard
- insecticidal soaps, hand held sprayers
Equipment and Supplies:
- hand tools: forks, spades, shovels, trowels, dibbles, rakes,
hoes, cultivators
- secateurs (pruning shears), loppers,
- child-sized hand tools
- wheelbarrow and garden cart
- garden hose, soaker hose, drip irrigation systems and parts,
spray nozzles, hose reels, water barrels, watering cans
- rototiller, chipper-shredder, mower, edger (you may only need
these items once a year so think about renting or sharing with
another garden)
- plant labels, plot markers, signs, indelible markers
- plastic, wood or metal edging
- plastic and clay flower pots, all sizes
- seedling trays, peat pots
- wooden planters
- locks and chains
- fluorescent lights, timers
- fabric row covers, cloches
- gloves, kneeling pads
- tool caddies, tool aprons
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HOW MUCH DO WE NEED AND HOW MUCH WILL IT COST?
Everyone’s first question is, “How much does it cost
to start a community garden?” Well, that all depends upon
what you have and what you want. Much can be scrounged or recycled
(see “How to Get What You Need” below), and the rest
can be bought or donated. But you have to know how much you need
before you can figure out what it will cost. And when you know
that, then always best to call local suppliers and get more than
one price for big ticket items, to make sure that you are getting
the best value for your money. Calling landscapers, fencing companies,
soil suppliers and lumber yards for prices will help you put
together a budget and if you tell them it’s for a community
garden project, maybe you’ll get a better price or even
a donation!
FENCING
Fencing is sold by the linear or running foot (or meter), prices
depending upon the height of fence you want and the type (wood,
chain link, snow,wrought iron, etc.). The price usually does
not include a gate. So if you want to have a 6 ft high fence
around the garden, add up the sides: for example for a garden
that measures 70 ft + 85 ft + 72 ft + 90 ft = 317 linear ft.
When you get the price of $15 per linear ft that would be 15
x 317=$4755. Since that’s waaay too expensive for your
budget, consider a 5 ft or 4 ft high fence instead.
Hint: ask if the price includes installation
FIGURING OUT SOIL VOLUMES:
Remember geometry class? To figure out how much volume of topsoil,
mulch or compost to order, you need to find the volume.
Take the area (length x width) and then decide how deep you want
it and multiply by that number to get the cubic measurement (volume).
It sounds easy, but there’s a little wrinkle. Chances are
you’ve figured your depth in inches (or centimeters), but
your length and width in feet (or meters). If so, you have to
convert the inches to parts of a foot so that everything is in
the same unit of measurement. (if you are working in metric,
just move the decimal point)
6" =0.5 ft; 4"=0.33 ft, 2"=0.15 ft, etc.
OK so it looks like this: an area of 50 ft x 70 ft = 3500 sq.
ft times a depth of 0.33 (3")
= 1155 cubic feet
But soil is sold in cubic yards, not cubic feet. So now divide
your cubic feet by 27 and you’ll wind up with cubic yards:
1155 / 27=42.78 cubic yards. (that’s because one cubic
yard is 3' x3' x 3' or 27) Hint: the smaller the amount you want,
the more expensive per cubic yard it will be because you are
paying for the delivery.
TIMBER:
If you are building raised beds, retaining walls, or wood fencing,
remember that a 2x4 really measures 1-1/2" x 3-1/2" and
a 4 x4 is really 3-1/2" x 3-1/2". Strange but true.
These days, using pressure treated wood is a no-no, because it’s
made with toxic chemicals that leach into the soil and can get
taken up by plants. Cedar last just as long as the p-t but isn’t
toxic. However, it does deplete our forests. So look for reused
or recycled timber or find another solution.
Hint: Don’t use old railroad ties --they’ve been
treated with creosote which is toxic to plants.
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